Usually, my Katerina is an impeccable navigator. But once her phone touched down in Buenos Aires, it got nervous. Madame K had us doing la vuelta del borracha through the city streets. I began to feel dizzy. Each time we whirled around yet another corner, I teased, "Darling, at this rate, we might just spiral all the way back to the airport." Her brow furrowed in concentration. My poor woman was working hard.
I wanted to take Katerina to La Boca, the old barrio where tango was born. But Katerina's stomach had other plans. While all the tourists went one way, my Katerina turned down a quiet side street, away from the crowds, and found a panadería.
Might as well feed the navigator, I thought as Katerina asked for an empanada. I went to the counter, and the man looked shocked. "Una empanada? Uno?" he asked, his eyebrows shooting up. I shrugged and gave him some coins.
Katerina didn't even sit down. The empanada disappeared in seconds. I love feeding her, what can I say? To the baker's relief and delight, I ordered two more.
I had planned to teach Katerina about tango's history while walking through La Boca, but here we were in a panadería instead. As she enjoyed her empanadas, I decided to give her the lesson anyway.
"You know, this is what tango is really about - neighborhoods like this, where poor immigrants from Italy and Spain built houses from scraps and leftover ship paint. They had nothing, but they made music anyway. That's where tango was born. With the people."